How to: Install Tein Hood Dampers

When I first did this retro-fit I followed the instructions made by another person, but shortly afterwards I noticed the lifters were rubbing the underside of the hood. So, I decided to eliminate a part that was required in the old setup. This way is simpler and saves you some money.

Here's a pic of the old way when the lifters were rubbing. See where the damper is mounted to the fender? This method avoided drilling a hole by utilizing the existing fender hole. Extensions had to be made because the dampers are not long enough. However, the damper body was rubbing the hood, so I had to move that mounting point outboard...away from the engine, but it only needed to be move a 1/4".


Here's a pic of the new way without the extensions. Notice the new mounting point is further outboard and closer to the hinge. I figured if I'm going to drill a hole in my fender then I may as well eliminate the extensions and move the mounting point closer to the hinge. This small change eliminated the rubbing issue.


First of all, you need to order the kit for the Integra DC2 and a new pair of BB6 hood hinges if you want to take your time and be able to drive your car. New hinges come from Honda in plain black primer, so if you want to paint them you can find color matched paint at www.PaintScratch.com.

When you receive your Tein kit, open it up and get familiar with all the parts. As you get familiar with how the parts assemble you'll notice how the little black stays are designed to fit over the Integra's hinges. The Preludes hinges are shaped differently, so the stays won't mate together without modifying the hinges.


So the first modification is cutting the new hinges (if you choose to buy new one's) in order for them to fit into the relief of the Tein stays. The stays have a relief on one side so the hinges will mate with them like two pieces in a puzzle. In this pic below you can clearly the stays don't fit over BB6 hinges without first trimming them to the shape of the relief in the little black stays.


Make a temple of the stays relief area on card stock and transfer them to the new hinges. Don't forget to trace out the hole in the stays. Place the template over the hinge, make sure the holes line up. Trace out the temple with a scribe and cut the hinges on a band saw. This is the only part that I don't have photo's...lol, sorry but my camera broke during this time.


After cutting you should have this. Pictured is the passenger side. FYI, I've been told that DC2 hinges won't work on the Prelude, that would make life too easy.


After cutting both hinges make sure they fit into the relief fairly close. As long as the holes line up you should be fine.


Now would be a good time to ruff up the primer with a scotch brite pad, wipe off dust with a rag dampened with alcohol and apply a couple coats of paint. I was impressed with the how well the spray paint matched.


A comparison of the old and new hinge.


Now remove the hood and old hinges. Get someone to help. A 10mm ratcheting combination wrench is recommended to reach one of the lower hinge bolts because they're a PITA! Install the new hinges but don't tighten up yet.


Now get your cordless drill, 15/64" drill bit and tape measure. Measure from the center of the middle fender bolt back toward the hinge 6" and make a mark in the outer channel along the fender. Make sure your mark in exactly in the center of the outer channel. Check your measurements and then using a center punch make a dimple in the steel. Drill through both layers of steel (the thin part and frame) Shown is the passenger side.


Clean out the metal shavings with a magnet or compressed air. Place a 6mm washer on top of a 6mm nut and slide them up under the sheet metal. I used a clip remover to slide them under. You may have to loosen the middle fender bolt and pry up slightly on the metal while sliding. Use your center punch to help line them up when you're close to the hole. TIP: Apply a small amount of grease to the washer and nut so they'll stick together, this keep the washer from falling off.


Install the ball studs from the Tein kit. Add some silicone sealant to prevent the edges of the drilled holes from rusting. Use the 6mm washers under the ball studs. Only these washers will fit into the channel area of the fender. It appears in the photo that the washer will not lay flat in the channel, but that is just the silicone sealant holding it up.


Tighten up the ball studs using 10 and 12 mm combination wrenches. If you drilled your hole in the center the stud hex and washers will fit into the channel.


Now reinstall the hood. For the upper hinge bolts, use the new 6m - 1.00 - 20 bolts. These are longer than the OEM bolts and are recommended because of the extra thickness of the stays. For each upper bolt add a 1/4" lock washer and 1/4" flat washer. Snug everything up and check the alignment of the hood. It helps to have a friend when adjusting the hood. When you get it right, tighten all the bolts. In this pic I still have the old extension connected, just ignore that.


Now assemble the Tein dampers. You can use loc-tight but I recommend you install them without first just to make sure everything is good. Install the lifters and close the hood slowly while checking both sides for any clearance problems. When the hood is closed check the alignment again. That's pretty much it. Your hood will now open about 10" higher than stock.

Don't forget to grease the ball sockets.